In the heart of Girona's Barri Vell, L’Escabetx restaurant has established itself as a gastronomic space championing local cuisine and fresh fish. Led by Lluís Vallín, 27, in the kitchen, and Pau Bonis, 29, in the front of house, the establishment received a Solete from Guia Repsol last year. What began five years ago as an informal concept of tapas and escabeches has evolved into a more elaborate offering, with a concise menu of about eight dishes that changes periodically to reflect the season.
Market fish, primarily sourced from Roses and other ports along the Costa Brava, is the star. While simple preparations like grilled or baked are available, the chef aims to work the fish with greater creativity, incorporating it into sauces or vinaigrettes that enhance its flavor. The goal is to make fish accessible to everyone, offering portions that allow diners to sample various types such as bonito, cod, or turbot. The menu is refreshed every two to three weeks, enabling the team to maintain creativity and an up-to-date offering.
Vallín and Bonis met while working together at a larger restaurant and decided to embark on this venture in 2021, taking over a space that became available due to the pandemic. They renovated and painted the premises themselves, starting with minimal tableware and cutlery and gradually expanding. Their philosophy is built on strong personal rapport: "You can't work with someone who isn't your friend. Since hospitality requires such long hours, we at least try to enjoy ourselves," they state.
Their prior experience allowed them to define a more contemporary work philosophy, avoiding extreme hours and seeking a balance between professional dedication and personal well-being. Vallín, who began his training at Rostisseria Santa Eugènia under Joan Piqué, a notable figure in contemporary Catalan cuisine, also spent several months in Lima in 2020. This period in Peru exposed him to a very different gastronomic tradition, with Japanese, Chinese, and Latin influences. However, he emphasizes that L’Escabetx is not a fusion restaurant but primarily focuses on seasonal cuisine with hints of Basque or French influences.
