The Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food has approved the restart of procedures for the creation of the Serrano Ham PGI, complying with a ruling by the Superior Court of Justice of Madrid that annulled the previous process due to a procedural defect. This judicial decision, resulting from an appeal filed by Andalusian producers, required a prior report from the Spanish Patent and Trademark Office.
Small producers from Trevélez (Granada) and Serón (Almería) reject the initiative, arguing that the PGI distorts the concept of quality and harms the artisanal industry. They believe the term 'jamón serrano' is associated with ham naturally cured in the mountains, while the PGI would allow certification of hams dried with artificial environmental temperature control and without specific breed or curing-by-weight requirements.
Pilar Álvarez, president of the Trevélez entity, points out that the new PGI does not respect the territorial link, as it covers the entire country and makes obtaining a homogeneous product difficult, which could confuse consumers. She adds that the reputation of Serrano ham corresponds to artisanal production, not industrial-scale production.
The employers' association Confecarne, through the Spanish Association of Meat Industries (Anice), defends the PGI as a way to strengthen the legal protection of the name, preserve the product's prestige, and enhance the international competitiveness of Spanish Serrano ham. They argue that the designation would provide greater protection against products from other countries.
Andalusian producers also warn of the socioeconomic impact on rural areas, as the approval of more lenient regulations could encourage the relocation of industries to more industrial zones to reduce costs. Anice, for its part, is willing to collaborate with the Ministry to complete the procedures.
According to Ministry of Agriculture data from 2024, the production of Serrano ham under the current ETG (Traditional Specialty Guaranteed) classification reached 22 million units, with a record economic value of 1.32 billion euros. Nearly six million units were exported. Serrano ham accounts for 90.6% of the total value of certified cured ham and shoulder pieces in Spain.
